Shanghai, from Bougie to Artsy to a Global Metropolis
How Shanghai has changed and not changed
小資情調, a Chinese term that combines the meanings of petty-bourgeois and sentiment or taste. It has no exact English equivalent to capture its delicate balance, a balance that treads between an aspiration for sophistication and being pretentious. I find that Bougie probably comes closest in resembling the sentiment of this Chinese term.
I grew up in Shanghai during the 1970s and 80s when it had long lost its status as Asia’s “capital of capitalism”. The marks of its past glory, though muted, still lurked in the ocean of grey—something that was designed to make everything and everyone blend into each other, so no individuality stood out. But something about Shanghai always stood out. It was not the semi-colonial architectural landmarks, or the dairy processing factories, or the textile industries and restaurants that retained most of the Western influence despite the name changes, it was the bougie sentiment that the Shanghainese tried hardest to hang on to, and be proud of.
The Street Scenes
This bougie sentiment is still around every street corner in 2023. It is now more about trend-setting than being pretentious. You tell me if my “street photos” captured the Shanghainese Bourgeois.
Getting From Point A to Point B
When I left Shanghai in early 1989, there were only two types of transportation available - personal bike or city bus, although to me the choices were walking or taking a crowded bus. I learned how to drive a year after I arrived in the States and to this date never learned how to bike - that would be another story for another day.
When I returned to Shanghai for the first time in 2000, the new subway services just debuted two lines. 15 years after that, I hailed a car-for-hire using the Uber App on my US mobile phone.
Today, the Shanghai Metro—serving as part of Shanghai Rail Transit— is the world’s biggest subway system by route length, totaling 826 kilometers (513 miles) with 19 lines and 505 stations. Right before the pandemic in 2019, it ranked first in the world by annual ridership (3.88 billion) with over 10 million riders on an average workday. On the other hand, Uber China has since lost the competition and merged with its competitor DiDi, a local ride-hailing service. I had to install a new App on my US mobile phone—DiDi Zhao Che—and link the payment via WeChat, which now accepts US credit cards. DiDi offers its riders a wide range of car choices, almost always all-electric cars except the lower-end options.
I had to visit the Museum of Art in Pudong and decided to take the subway right across the street from the hotel where I was staying. Three stops and $0.4 later, I was standing in the center of the Pudong financial district, where the two-year-old museum stood. I took the return trip via DiDi and opted for its “premium” class and within minutes I was relaxing in a quiet BYD, a Tesla equivalent in China, which still smelled like a new car and came with bottled water, hand sanitizer, and masks in addition to a driver reciting scripted greetings upon my entering and existing the car. The 20-minute car ride costed $5. Later at dinner, I bragged about how much I had saved by taking the morning ride on the subway. My friend laughed and pointed out that had I taken the electric city bus, (or better yet, the electric city bike which could be unlocked with a scan of its QR code), I could have saved even more - the cost would be merely $0.15.
Maybe I will try the bus next time.
Exiting the restaurant that night, I learned another new way of getting from point A to point B: someone to drive you home in your car, if you could not resist the urge to have a drink or two. All you needed to do was scan the QR code on the driver’s backpack and make sure your trunk had enough space to store the driver’s folding electric bike.
It is all about Art (and City Planning)
When I think about the museum scene, New York City, London, Paris, and even Beijing—for its Palace Museum, a.k.a. The Forbidden City, among some 260 others—are what come to mind. I always make sure to reserve enough time for museum visits when I am in one of these cities. When my sister found out that museums was not on my Shanghai itinerary, she insisted that I should spend at least one afternoon visiting the Museum of Art Pudong. So off we went, and I am so glad we did.
Located at the heart of Pudong’s financial district, the Museum of Art Pudong (MAP) broke ground in September 2017 and opened to the public in July 2021. MAP set out to present world-class exhibitions, as well as domestic artists to its audience. It aims to become a new cultural landmark of Shanghai and an important platform for international cultural exchange. Thanks to the improvised visit, not only did it change my view on the cultural and art scene in Shanghai, but it also introduced me to two Chinese artists whose works were on exhibit that day: Beijing-based and internationally famed painter Zeng Fanzhi and Pulitzer winner and former Associated Press photojournalist and photographer Liu Heung Shing (who shot the famous “Tank man in Tiananmen Square”).
I strolled into the exhibit of Zeng’s works without knowing what to expect. The works on display were arranged into phases. Walking along the phases, I witnessed the development of Zeng’s artistry style, along with the change of the artist himself. How clever and captivating! I had to give the curator my admiration.
Liu’s works on the other hand, immediately grabbed my attention. I have family members and friends who are amateur but serious photographers so photography is not an unfamiliar art form to me. Liu’s lens captured the same emotional tension in ordinary people and celebrities alike. Historical significance stemmed from seemingly mundane moments. I had a new appreciation for the cliché “a picture is worth a thousand words”.
I don’t think I would ever come to know these two amazing artists without visiting MAP. So thank you, my dear sister!
MAP is only the tip of the iceberg of Shanghai’s museum scene. As of May 2023, there were 159 officially registered museums and galleries in Shanghai, up from 119 in 2021. Many of these are privately owned boutique art galleries and niche museums hidden in the unassuming streets of Shanghai. Visiting museums and galleries in Shanghai will be a major part of the itinerary of my next trip.
I can’t talk about museums and the art scene without at least mentioning the West Bund, part of the Shanghai 2035 city development master plan. For years, the City of Shanghai has been building/rebuilding and improving the city one specialized area at a time, striving to make Shanghai a diversified and multi-functional global city. I had my firsthand (and very superficial) experience walking along the West Bund. It refers to the waterfront area west of the Huangpu River, of what used to be an industrial area of factories and warehouses. Nowadays, dozens of art and cultural institutions, alongside the clusters of theatres and artistic studios, are emerging along the 7+ mile shoreline. There are innovative financial and technology centers being developed, and most notably, a so-called “highland of artificial intelligence industry” to make West Bund an “AA”, or Art and AI engine, for the region.
If you ever have plans to visit Shanghai in the future, make sure you stop by the West Bund area. You won’t be disappointed!
Extra:
While Pingtan 評彈 is a Suzhou local musical form, it has been one of the most popular performing arts in Shanghai. I grew up listening to it on our neighbor’s radio stations, blasting on summer nights when doors and windows were open, hoping to catch some breeze. Well, the breeze also brought Pingtan to everyone. When I hear them now, the euphemistic melodies always make me feel homesick and nostalgic.
A friend of mine took me there on my last full day in Shanghai. It magically fixed something deep inside my emotional sphere.
This is the 3rd and final essay on my recent trip to Shanghai. You can read the first one here, and the second one here.
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Shanghai comes alive in your article. This city absolutely deserve people's admiration and visit. It is no surprise that Shanghai gives birth to so many great writers and artists.
This is such an eye-catching post that really gives a wonderful perspective on this dynamic and fascinating city. And the photos are gorgeous.